February 28, 2025
Chasing Stones: Tucson Gem Show
Tucson, AZ
By Mary MacGill.
Interview by Carly Casazza.
Photography by Em McCann Zauder.
CC: How do you approach sourcing stones at the gem show, and what does your process look like once you arrive?
MM: I like to go in with a plan for what we know we need for core styles, custom engagement, and stones that are frequently requested, but I leave a ton of room for responding to my gut. We go straight from the airport to one of the shows because I’m too excited by the prospect of finding stones to do anything else. We try to have focus days, dedicated to certain stones or pearls, but often stray. The ideas flood my head with every strand of beads or stone I pick up – the experience of the gem show wipes me out completely, and invigorates me entirely. We'll take the occasional break for lunch, water, and an end-of-day beer.
CC: Who accompanied you to the event and what unique perspectives did they bring?
MM: My mom, Susan, who is always pushing the envelope when it comes to new shapes and stones. Marion, our production manager, who makes sure we get everything we need, and also assures me that spending money on new inspiration (even when I’m not sure what it will become) is worthwhile. And my husband, Terrence, who helps document the trip, cooks dinner with me, and is overall great for morale. We also met up with designer Kate Jones of Ursa Major who was with her husband, Chris and mom, Kathleen.
CC: What did you go into Tucson looking for?
MM: I’ve really enjoyed creating the crescent collars, so I was on the lookout for larger opaque materials with a chunkier feel. Our engagement ring and precious stone jewelry have also been doing well, so I am always looking for precious stones that speak to me with either unique proportions or subtle colors.
CC: Do you look for gems to fit a specific style/piece or do you find gems and then imagine what piece they could work for?
MM: Always! Key styles this year were the crescent collars, disk shapes, and beads for layering bracelets and necklaces.
CC: What surprised you this year? Were you drawn to something new?
MM: A strand of ancient trade beads and a diamond cabochon.
CC: Are there any vendors that you have longstanding connections with?
MM: In an industry where so much of information is opaque and quality runs the gamut, cultivating relationships with stone vendors is one of the most important parts of the business. Over the years I have narrowed down our list to those vendors that clearly and consistently. demonstrate a commitment to quality and taking care of their employees.
CC: Are you taking a step back from any materials, stones, or styles this year?
MM: I’ve tried to take a break from Aquamarine… but it has proven impossible – my eyes go straight to it.
CC: What can we expect to see in collections this year? Where is your creative direction heading this year?
MM: Dynamic color combinations, a play with scale, unexpected silhouettes.
CC: What do you like to do in Tucson when you aren’t hunting for gems?
MM: Eat Mexican food and enjoy being outside in the desert. The city is surrounded by mountains with beautiful hikes throughout Saguaro National Park. Favorite restaurants include Penca, Five Points, and Seis Kitchen.
